Web Analytics

Three Days in La Gomera

This week, I spent three inspiring days on La Gomera - home of the ocean row

This week, I spent three inspiring days on La Gomera—a tiny island a short ferry ride from Tenerife. With lush forests and tumbling waterfalls, it’s breathtaking, just like being propelled into the prehistoric world of Jurassic Park.

But the real magic lies in its small port, bustling with excitement, it’s the epicentre of the annual World’s Toughest Row: The Atlantic Race 2024.

This year, 38 teams are preparing to row 3,000 miles across the Atlantic, featuring six solos, 11 pairs, four trios, 15 fours, and two fives.

Among the competitors, the celebrity team is Row4Cancer, led by the legendary Mark Slats. A Dutch rower with multiple world records, Slats is chasing the one title that eludes him: the fours record.

La Gomera doesn’t draw the winter-sun-seekers who flock to Gran Canaria or Tenerife, so the winter season there would feel sleepy if it weren't for "the Row".

Instead, it's a hive of anticipation and excitement that draws a mix of fascinating characters, all united by one thing: a passion for ocean rowing.

Who’s there

Well, first there are the giddy “Future Rowers”—teams without boats, funds, or plans but bursting with enthusiasm. For them, just receiving the magic email from Nicki at Race HQ, saying “You’re in!”, is enough to make the trip. I met three young women from Germany proudly wearing “Future Rower” lanyards, already envisioning their journey two years from now. Only one slight problem… none of them had yet worked up the courage to tell their parents.

There are the old sea dogs, past competitors brimming with tales of storms, waves, and triumphs. They gather with grande beers, offering advice and all sorts of yarns. But Race Safety Officers caution those of us with fresh naivety: “Remember, their storms were always bigger, the waves always higher. Listen, but row your row.”

Also featured are the baffled German hikers, stumbling across the event on their walking holidays. They apologise for their flawless “terrible English” while asking a million questions about the rowing. 

Then there are the sports fans, folks like Alan who followed his neighbour’s race five years ago and fell in love with the community. Retired and unattached to any one team, he now visits La Gomera and Antigua every year, simply to reconnect with the magic.

At the heart of it all: The Blue Marlin Bar. Its walls are covered in decades of scribbled messages from rowers wishing themselves luck before heading into the unknown, a tradition since the first race in 1997.

Space on the Blue Marlin wall is getting scarce.

Preparing for My Row

This was my second trip to La Gomera. Last year, I was a giddy “Future Rower,” staying up late, drinking too much beer, and soaking up the atmosphere.

This time, I came with a purpose: mental preparation. 

My row is set for December 2025.

I wanted to visualise the starting line, immerse myself in the energy, and stay focused.

A highlight was meeting Sam Glover, a supremely talented rower who offered invaluable advice about my R25 Solo boat:

“She’s tricky in big seas but fast in calm waters. She’ll need momentum to get going, but once she does, she’ll glide.” 

Like every boat, mine has its strengths and weaknesses.

Success will depend on how I adapt to her personality in every condition.

My boat arrives in March, giving me time to bond with her before the big race.

The Spirit of the Row

Who don’t you see much of in La Gomera? This year’s rowers. 

Gone are the wild parties of the late ‘90s. Today’s crews are dialled in, focused, and determined. They’ve spent years training for this moment.

Watching them now, I can’t help but think: every one of them was once a “Future Rower,” wide-eyed and full of excitement. 

La Gomera isn’t just a starting point for a race; it’s a crucible where dreams are forged, friendships are built, and a shared love of adventure binds everyone together. 

As I walked around the port, visualising my start line in 2025, I felt a deep sense of gratitude—for the challenge ahead, for the community, I’m now a part of, and for the chance to write my message on the walls of The Blue Marlin.

Adventure awaits, but for now, I prepare.

One step closer, one stroke at a time.

--

Thank you for reading.

I need your help! Rowing an ocean is expensive. If you’d like to help me in any way, I would be hugely grateful.

Navigate here to purchase equipment that will help me on my journey.

See you at the start line!

Get me in your inbox

Thanks for signing up!
Oops! Something went wrong while submitting the form.